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my car has leda coilovers on the front which arent ideal as they are off a rally car and we cant lower the front anymore as run out of adjustment
has rose jointed top mounts but not camber adjustable yet,thats next year
poly bushes all round

rear just has koni adjustables which i havent even touched since i got the car with rising rate rear springs and a larger ARB

car has no understeer to speak of and does get a bit back-endy under heavy braking and sometimes if you turn in a bit too quick but thats how i like it as it then resembles what a go-kart does which i raced for 20 odd years

next year im going to get some proper coil overs front and rear,either avo or gaz do a set where you dont have to modify the rear arches to fit them.along with some camber adjustable front top mounts and also spacing the front wheels further out to aid turn in,not that personally i think the car needs any help but thats what my spanner man suggests.plus next year ill be on a lot stickier tyres than this year. if you look at other peoples in car videos of my car it does have a lot of body roll compared to a lot of other cars in my class but when you look at how bad their cars understeer ill leave mine as it is i think.championship this year and lap record holder you cant really argue about any of the set up really

too many people have their cars way too stiff,remember their not touring cars on super sticky slicks

must be avo's as my mate has full gaz kit for his F1000 rally car and its still a shocker + spring setup on the rear

As its an AWD with power and a rear diff locked it will push understeer, get a rear lsd, Is the centre diff locked, I expect if it is not that might be a problem as under some conditions the rear drive wont be engaged and the front will be draging a locked rear axle throught he corner until you get onthe power?.
I experienced similar understeer in the escort with the LSD shimmed up so tight it would just push straight ahead under power like the diff was locked up, backed it off and it was fine again.
The AWD will have a natural tendancy to four wheel drift into understeer, lower the pressure of the rear tyres a bit, might help reduce lateral traction to help it break free a bit. Rear wheel drive is faster, AWD uses front to help get off the line and in snow, front drive is for nanas. Yes I said it!
Handling is about wheel and body control in particular maintaing wheel geometry against body angle and controling the bodies movement compared to the road. Too stiff suspension is bad unless thr car is super stiff. my swift prior to seam welding would twist under suspension load so badly the interior light came on, meaning the door gap opened under cornering load. The suspension was so stiff the body was providing ride compliance. Body roll is not bad if you have the right degree of wheel control and static geometry, the objective is to keep the biggest tyre contact patch on the loaded wheels for as long as possible, through the dynamic range of suspension travel. I and my driving style like a point front and slippery rear, not skitish or hopping but predictable sliding. (we ran 205/50/13 inch slicks on the front of a mini with 185/60/13s on the rear, the smaller tyre being dragged would heat up better than thr dame sized front on the rear and provided better grip and when warm provided a controllable predictable slide erradicating understeer)
Lower the better within reason, with standard suspension pick up points too low is achievable at about 2.5-3 inches lower, rearrange these and you can get it lower(touring car style modifications though...read complex and expensive)

More later, Im going to the cinema

GTP

I'm intreaged to read more p.s. I forgot I've got full weld in cage and the mini prop replaced so running a constand 50 50 drive split

Back from he cinema...good film

when you say mini prop do you mean the centre viscous has been welded or locked or just th emini prop shaft has been replaced, the prop alone wont do anything other than allow longevity.

GTP

I took the v/c out completely and the mini prop and made a longer mini prop from stainless to replace the lot wot film was it lol

Now Im intrigued,
We need to talk about Kevin!
tell me more about the maxi mini prop. do you have any photos. If this saves cutting and shutting the viscous it would save me many headaches.
Do tell.

GTP

Basically cut the bosses of the standard mini prop welded to length of stainless machines out the front of the v/c housing to mount bigger bearing removing the 1 at the back of the mini prop reemed out the back of the mini prop housing to give clearance to the shaft and mount a seal in the back ther aswel thus saving a lot of rotating mass think I've got some pics ill have a look

this guy doesnt seem to have problems with understeer

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kw6jUZ5GnA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5-1pv_ep8o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTyTm09AX70

though he has very deep dish wheels like the ones im now putting on

thats awsum he has the wider arches that i wana put on a widen the track wonder if he has welded rear diff

i would think with the amount of money gone into that he would have LSD's all round

Gtp -- I found a few pics of wen I dun my mini prop yesturday if ur still interested

yeah mate get em up

GTP